I am finally able to take a look at *any* filament and it has become a very interesting world.

Apart from the particulars of Bambu's AMS and it's quirks, there's so much range to pick.

I will definitely aim to decode the AMS protocol and try some shenanigans (I understand it may probably be WAY out of my league, doesn't mean I can't tinker anyway)

Well, if I want to have engineering filaments, I have to get way hotter than any cheap-ish drying solution.

There seems to be a trend on trying Air Fryers with "dehumidifying" setting on them.

Will have to give it a serious thought. I just wish they weren't so fucking ugly.

youtube.com/watch?v=u6RWsOP8BM…

I think I will try to get the AF140EU, rather than the AF100EU, even if the second one is sufficient, just because the second one looks fucking awful.

I would prefer if the AF140 was more square on all the edges, but still, it's better than the 100.

Altough I'll try to find a secondhand one first, I won't discard buying brand new, as I don't want to risk fucking up filaments that cost 100€ per Kg, for example.

Well, found a new AF140 at some discount (115€ instead of 130€) and I could pick it up in a shop near me, so no shipping cost, and I'm really tempted on jumping the gun.

My thought train is the following:

Cheap filament dryers cost between 40 and 70€, and they WON'T dry, or dry properly, PPA-CF, PAHT-CF, ASA, PC...as they all require at least 80ºC (PPA-CF requires 100-140ºC) So I will absolutely need to dry the filament and this will do it at the range I need.

Nah, fuck it, I'm buying it.

What if I do some good old research before actually buying it?

Just because my choice has more liters than the first one, doesn't mean it can actually fit a filament spool ^_^UU

DEPTH:

AF100: 95mm
AF140: 88mm

MAX DIAMETER:

AF100: 209mm
AF140: 222mm

Bambu wiki specifies spools that are 50-68mm in width by 197-202mm in diameter, so I can proceed with the purchase.

Also, on the aesthetic part of things, the 140 definitely looks way better and less...kitchen-y than the 100.

Plus it's about 85mm shorter. I wonder why the other one is so tall.

Well, it doesn't matter.

also, realized I will be able to dessicate silica gel beads with the same tool (that's no longer an appliance, don't you DARE), so that's a plus.

youtube.com/watch?v=vV8dOm2WH5…

I predict that at some point, someone, in china probably, is going to figure out that 3D printing needs proper filament dryers instead of the usual regurgitated small boxes with a heater, and commercially repurpose one of these to do it's thing, but look less like a kitchen appliance, and more like a workshop tool.

They could get rid of the non stick surface and just use stainless, for example.

(picture: AF100)

Also, I will never try to use the home oven for any of this. Lest the following happens.

I mean, I can always fuck up the controls and actually air fry the spool, but it won't have food in it later on.

Got the "filament dryer" 🤣

Bigger than expected, but that will fit nicely in the designated space.

There we go.

I am unsure if the AMS will fit in the top shelf (and be able to swap spools, I mean) but I will try once I open the machine up.

Somehow I am pretty sure you can fit the printer itself between the legs of the Bekvam, if you remove the middle shelf. Definitely an interesting option if I ever had two printers.

Btw, the "filament dryer" was inserted from the side, but the pan can be removed normally.

Width wise, the AMS will fit no probs, but it won't particularly be able to open in any way.

What I do have space for os to install a sliding tray and put it on top so I can pull it out and do any changes I need. Now I need to investigate ways to do that. 😄

@vxo I am seriously pondering on adding a concrete pour inside the space just below the tabletop, to reduce possible resonances from the printer (apart from ordering some of those fancy dampener feet they sell)

It will be easy to add a few long screws on the sides so the concrete slab doesn't come crashing down on the AMS, and probably even add some corner spacers so it is still possible to tear it down later on.

Won't do it soon, so I have time think it out properly.

Ahhh, these may be the slabs y'all been talking about.

That would probably work, but I think I prefer the embedded slab for that stealth look, xD

Why am I happy to have bought the Filament fryer?

Well, I am NOT waiting 300+h to dry filament @ 70°C (amd the cheapo filament dryers don't even reliably reach that temp anyway, realistically it's more like 55°C

Now that I am thinking more heavily about the X1C, my mind drifts into "let's modify a second AMS unit to actually handle abrasives.

First thing I'm looking into is how different are the filament paths between the AMS internal distributor vs the AMS Hub.

The distributor has tighter bends (plus the internal PTFE paths that are also quite sharp)

I wonder if the HUB, by using only the two central paths with the smoothest transitions, can actually handle abrasives altogether.

So far, If I understand it correctly, the AMS does the following:

Motor 1: both push and pull the filament, sense presence AND wind-unwind the spool.

Motor 2: push and pull filament as well as sense presence.

I wonder how exactly the ams also fails with rubber-like filaments, maybe it's a problem with many motors pushing and pulling on it?

Ah, so it's a "too much space to go somewhere else" type of problem (that's the distributor).

If I had plenty of money, I would buy a second AMS to test sharp shape that reached well into the distributor gear to make the filament just have a single path to go.

Back int he day I made my Cetus be able to print TPU reliably by adding a small spacer-guide so I could avoid this exact problem.

Oh well, since I want to rebuild the complete AMS in a different way, that may not be a problem.

Holy shit, the distributor is FUCKEN TINY!

I had not realized how small it was.

Definitely a ton of space after the gear, before entering the PTFE guide tube, waaaay too much (I guess for reliability?)

Aham

So, it seems the problem is mostly when retracting?

I will definitely have to buy a second AMS to tinker with and build some weird contraption that uses the parts, but feeds the filament differently.

youtube.com/watch?v=VklIM9maye…

Well, finally got to add the concrete slab to the Bekvam table for the 3D printer.

I didn't want to go higher than the metal plates (for no particular reason, just an arbitrary decision), so it will not reach 25kg, probably being about 20 or so, wich is PLENTY for the intended purpose.

I was told to gently wet the surface with a sponge every 8h or so, to get the best finish and no cracks, I will try, not sure how will that go.

Any cement stains will be gently sanded once it's dry.

Today I finally weighed the Könkrete Bekväm, and it surprisingly got to 37kg. Taking into account that the wood in itself is about 9kg, that's a wooping 28kg of dampening mass.

I used 3,25L of water for the 25kg mix, of wich I left a sizeable amount in the flexy bucket, but all the secrews and wire should also add something, too.

I am happy to have reached the weight goal, tomorrow at mid day, I will turn it upside down and leave it be, as It will still be a while before I unbox the printer.

An ominous slab of concrete hangs over our heads 🤣.

The wood warped widthways a little. I knew that may happen but the cost of the screws was already high, so buying spray varnish to try to protect it was sort of out of the question. in any case, since the printer has four legs, the bend is not that critical anyway, there will still be four contact points underneath.

I may redo this table sometime in the future with some more thought, but for what I need it, it's good enough.

Btw, I think I fucked up my calculations for the mass and it's really 18Kg, not 28.

In hindsigh it makes more sense, given the amount I left in the flexybucket.

Oh well, It is still a very good mass for dampening.

I will doublecheck next weekend, tho.

Well, well, well...seems my preparations timing was spot on!

Boss received the quote for six pieces at 250€, whereas I only want a 0,8mm hardened nozzle and will print them for free (boss buys the PPA-CF filament, ofc.) for less than the quote, he can get the 140 pieces we needed. 😄

So, I will be moving my computer and desk this friday and prepare the printer on saturday/sunday.

And I get a "free" day to do whatevs while the printer prints the test pieces.

Heh.

IT IS TIME.

i won't be documenting all the process, just enjoy it.

Yesterday I realized I had no dryboxes left with spool carrier and filament output, since I'm a dumbass and I've been giving all them away 🤣😅

Since I needed one for this weekend, once I open the PPA-CF, I just updated one blank cover with leftover alu pieces. I didn't have any inox tubing, so I used some 10mm CF tube I had lying around.

Next time I will be taking a look at moving the aluminium supports down into the body itself, rather than have them in the cover, but for now, this will do.

Finally tested the filament dryer and I was pleased to see the heat distribution seems to be quite even.
I also discovered that the drying option only allows 40-90°C, still plenty of range for mostly everything.

The device itself becomes noisier at night, I may try to balance the internal fan later on, but right now I need to dry the PPA-CF, so I took the whole thing out to the kitchen balcony floor, rather than leave it in the printer.

I am glad to see the machine is hotter than ambient temperature, but max temp on the outside is 35-40°C after 90 minutes.

I think next weekend I will bring a temperature datalogger from work to see how stable the whole thing actually is.
I mean however bad it is, it is better than having NO dryer at all, or just a low temp dryer.

Numbers tell you that PPA-CF is incredibly stiff compared to normal PLA, but having always printed the latter, you are not mentally prepared to the shock of seeing it in person.

Can't wait to do some shenanigans with it.

Remember I wanted to use my old 3D printer UPS for the X1C?

Well, that one is only good up to 450W, so the 1000W peak of heating the bed just shuts it down.

I had been thinking about getting a bigger model for the printer, but I wasn't seeing any good deals until today.

Just reserved this 1200W unit for 140€ shipped.

I will struggle this month with other monetary things, but since the day I got stuck in the elevator, and neighbors got fried appliances, I am wary of damaging the new printer.

There we go.

The device supports the 1000W load inline (remember that the 450W one shut down like that) and the batteries almost hold the 1000W startup (only left them to charge for half an hour). It did perfectly hold while already started (unplugging it after everything was hot)

Just tested the UPS this morning after a good night of charge.

Started the printer and mid-bed heating (1000W) unplugged the thing. The thing started beeping like crazy, obviously, but did not shut down. I left it like that for a few seconds, but I had no need to know the endurance so I plugged it back again, and it went on.

I definitely feel a lot better having the whole thing protected. 😄

There is an extra benefit I hadn't realized from having an UPS for the 3D printer:

Not having to worry about power cuts during firmware updates.

Well, today I had my first "major fix" of the printer (nothing broke, just weird behaviour of components).

Anyway, so the printhead has a cable chain and a single point attachment for the teflon tube, right?

The chain in itself has a bit of play, but not too much, UNLESS...unless you print with CF filaments that are hard as fuck, and their twist, especially when arriving at mid spool, is heavy.

It will pull down both the chain and tube, and it will start rubbing the carbon rod of the X axis.

At first I tried the simple fix of adding more zip ties, but I only made it worse, in fact, so much worse I even stopped working and dedicated myself to fix the issue, since I was printing parts for work anyway.

At first I tried using a simple 1 wall arc, printed with PPA-CF (sanded down to remove coarseness + adding a layer of kapton to prevent it from disintegrating the electrical cable in the chain.

However, that did not work that well, until I realized I could do this:

And here it is, working.

youtube.com/watch?v=26B5oKTLHY…

I see now a few other fixes around, but the nicest one ///requires a complete dissasembly of the cable, wich I don't really want to do./// CORRECTION: No, it doesn't. However I don't have nylon filament to try it either. I'll take a look at it in the future.

makerworld.com/es/models/65428…

A friend asked about the fix, but I told them I'd show tomorrow, because late...however in the end I found myself having some free time, and I decided to redesign the piece for that extra bling and better fit.

So, this is the piece as it stood last time.

As you can see it was a tad too long and it made the end of the chain too straight, things I wanted to fix.

But how where you going to fix that?

Well...I don't have two 3D scanners for nothing, do I?? It was about time I had real use for them.

With the piece taken out, I propped the chain with something I had lying around and then took a scan off of it.